Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Perfect weather, Roller Coasters and Ozarks

Day 41, August 11, Hutchinson to Newton, 50 miles, 1000 feet elevation gain


I got to the nearest town, Newton, at about 3:00PM. Several riders, I have met the day before, told me to positively stop by the Newton Bike Shop. The owner, James, puts up riders for free in his shop. You can use his computer, his little kitchen and he has mattresses. I passed the store, they are closed Sundays, you can guess what day it was. I figured it would have been to early anyway and I went to a store to buy food. I was about to leave when an Architect, who saw me riding earlier, chatted me up. A gentle soul. This delayed my exit by about 30 minutes. As I get ready, another man approaches. He introduces himself as an employee of above bicycle store and insists that I go there, adding, they would love to host me, the owner having arrived since. After this, I figured, I was meant to land up there. Good decision. James, high energy, with a beautiful family, all there. They were more than kind.
I stayed the night, in the company of another traveler, Darin, a mature 20 year old from Iowa, on the same route I was on. In fact we left almost the same time, and had been in close proximity the whole time. Now riding solo coast to coast as a 20 year old woman is admirable. Darin, you are a well balanced, curious woman. Not driven by fear, but careful. You are a shining star.
The air mattress I slept on was leaking air. I slept maybe 3 hours.


Day 42, August 12, Newton to Eureka, 82 miles, 2000 feet elevation gain

It rained in the morning, but stopped a couple of hours later.
The ride was typical eastern Kansas. Slow rolling hills, green, a slow place dotted with friendly people. The interesting thing is, that my map, which I love and has been very accurate, issued by Adventure Cycling Association, describes this part of Kansas as flat. I am puzzled by that. The land is tilted from (all approximate) 3400 feet to 800 feet, west to east. From Hutchinson, in the middle of the state, to the Missouri border the elevation gain (riding downhill) was about 2500 feet  per 100 miles of riding. Now how to they say it? "That ain't flat".
Early afternoon, I caught up with Darin, who left earlier than me. We rode together for the rest of the day. I was getting quite hot, then on cue, a thunderstorm passed us, drenching all. It did not last, and was perfect cooling off. Late in the day, I showed Darin where I typically spend my nights, she was no impressed. She mostly camped in city parks. We parted ways, probably not crossing paths again.
In the end, me and the local chapter of mosquitoes, found a decent spot to camp, off a closed road.


Day 43, August 13, Eureka to Walnut, 71 miles, 1900 feet elevation gain 

The weather was perfect, little wind, no rain.  Temperatures from 70-90, sweet. Partly cloudy, nice.
Most of the tiny towns I go through, look sad and decayed. I found out a reason for why there are so many decaying buildings even in otherwise well kept towns, (true at least in some). I love to read. I pick up local papers, and find the most interesting stories. In one I read, that many towns have restrictions on alterations of "historical" buildings. This makes renovating difficult and expensive.
So some people do nothing. In the misguided believe that all old is worth saving they have encouraged the existence of some very debilitated housing. Of course, there is the habit by many in rural America, to store old cars or equipment on their property, typically along the road for all to see.
Something I have never quite understood. With the exception of a few items, I find it ugly.
I saw one car with a tree growing out of the area that once held a motor. Another had three pick up trucks parked next to each other. You could see by the vegetation and model that every 10-15 years another truck gets parked.


Day 44, August 14, Walnut to Golden City, 86 miles, 2400 feet ascent

I crossed into Missouri that day. Land of the Ozarks! I thought the Ozarks where a tribe of the Amazon basin, named after an animal with white stripes. I am not admitting wrong, but it is actually one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world (that's why they are so low), rising up to 1600 feet.
This does not sound like much, until you ride it. I have heard people describe is at a roller coaster and I must say the description is apt. Many rivers have carved deep river valleys with steep climbs in and out of them. So you go up and down all day long. I had a lot of fun with it. The area is incredibly beautiful. Forests of Oak, American Elm,  Hickory and more. Many streams, with the cleanest water I have ever seen. Kansas rivers run brown with cow manure, one of the many unseen (by many) affects of raising cattle.
I overcame my reluctance to camp in public places and stayed at the city park. Part of my fear is always noise. I arrived and it was empty and beautiful. With benches, toilets and hold on...hot showers. I felt good. Unfortunately, there was also an open basketball court a 100 feet from me.
As I lay down at 9:30, kids arrived. There game was over at 11:30PM. I can not blame them, I was glad they are playing. Sleep? No.


Day 45, August 15, Golden City to Fair Grove, 70 miles, 4400 feet ascent

More of the same riding. I have found better ways of cooking healthy meals (hey I am from the West Coast). I am realizing that I shop the same way, I shop at home. This means I walk along of the inside perimeter of the stores walls, where all the fresh food is located. There is a reason for this (read Michael Pollan). I have ignored the frozen section, which holds a good variety of frozen vegetables which bought at noon are ready for dinner. Add parboiled brown rice (for ease of cooking on my small stove) and something else, great meal. And cheap. Talk about food. My appetite is still improving. I now eat 2-3 pounds of food at one sitting.
I was was on the side of the road eating when 2 people stopped, making sure I did not need help. One of them, a woman, gave me a water melon. I do not know how I did it, but I ate 7/8 of it within 2 hours. This is after I finished my lunch.
I stayed in the city park again. This time, no noise but also no bathrooms.



Day 46, August 16, Fair Grove to Houston, 80 miles, 4600 feet elevation gain

The ride was uneventful and beautiful. (Still Ozarking).  I have seen my first confederate flags and people talk funny. I have a dog chase me every hour or so. Most are harmless, the one's that are not recognize pepper spray....they really do. I pull it out (it is strapped to my bicycle, don't leave home without it) and there anger at me seems to dissipate.
At one turn, there was a gas station. I stopped to look at my map. Right next to me a guy rolls down his window, while his amply proportioned wife who wears shorts and T-shirt, but nothing else pumps gas. He told me I was going in the wrong direction. Now I am pretty good in figuring people out. He was pulling my leg, but was harmless. Next he told me to watch myself, because there are a lot of "Hillbillies" around here. I asked him in return if he was one of them. He broke out in a wide grin, showing off three missing teeth and said: "Yes". It was priceless. He was sitting in his very beat up car, with the above described wife, who never spoke, his pot belly touching the steering wheel, he wore a "wifebeater" shirt. All that was missing was the beer in the cup holder.....maybe I just did not see it. I laughed for the next mile of riding.
I had a motel booked for one night, found it and slept pretty good.


Day 47, August 17,  Rest day

 In the morning, I moved out of the motel. I did my laundry, including my sleeping bag, which had a lot of sunscreen and insect repellent on it. Bought food and found the city park. Located beautifully along a creek, and spent the day reading. I realize, again,  how sensitive I am to people screaming at their kids, for the smallest infractions. No difference between man and woman here. One guy was screaming "GET OUT OF THAT SAND NOOOOWWWW!)"at his 5 year who had run ahead and found the sand box. She did, right away. I had a strong urge to stick the guy's head into the sandbox, deep. Made camp and slept fairly well.
I know this is random, but I want to mention, how few fruit trees and or vegetable gardens I have seen so far.


Dietmar's Index and other tidbits..


Total miles so far: 2517 miles, passed half way point of about 3900 miles total.
Total ascent so far: 163,000 feet.


Most common road kill in Kansas, by far?
Turtles

First "slave state" to vote, on their own, to abolish slavery?
Missouri, 1864


First country in the world in the world to abolish slavery?
Spain, 1569







4 comments:

  1. Hi Dietmar , I don't if you will remember me but me and my little yorkie met you just outside of Walnut Grove Missouri on Thursday the 15th of August. You were taking a break in a shady spot right off BB highway. I enjoyed talking with you and yes I found a great new route to ride. Well on sunday the 18th we were out riding the other side of town and I came upon a girl riding , I asked her where she was come from she said San Francisco , I was like no way I just met a guy the other day coming from there ! She said really did he have a german accent! I said yes ! She told me she rode with you in Kansas ! I just thought it was pretty wild that I ran into both of you!! So I asked her if she was doing a blog or facebook , she said no but you was and gave me your blog! I have totally enjoyed reading about your travels!! You both are awesome and I fell blessed to have met you both!

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  2. Teresa,

    Yes I remember you. I was sooo tempted to steal your dog, you have no idea. You are the kind of person, that has made this trip so special. I am glad you met Darin.

    Dietmar

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  4. TERESA! This is Darin, and I just can't believe that both Dietmar and I ran into you on the road! It was so nice to meet you and chat. One of these days, we need to have a reunion on BB!

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