Colorado, Mountains and Rain

Day 27, July 27, Blanding UT to Dolores CO, 85 miles, 5200 feet descent

Beautiful day, only in the 80s for the first time since I began. Most of the day was riding up and down little hills. I felt I like I was on an seesaw. I crossed into Colorado midway, the change in scenery and culture was immediate. I got into Dolores with rain clouds forming. The Motel was too expensive and the town laying in a narrow river valley had no place where I could pitch my tent in privacy.
Then of course they had a city park with some bushes. The guy in the motel said that the cops in town are pretty cool. They were, nobody bothered me. It rained for much of the night. It was uncomfortable though to come out of my tent in my underwear and realize that people are already walking on the trail 5 feet from my tent. I dove back in and waited for a better time.

Day 28, July 28, Dolores to Rico, 38 miles, 3000 feet ascent

As soon as I was done with breakfast (consumed on a park bench), it started pouring rain. After an hour of hovering under the roof of the park rest room, I was able to continue. It was all uphill, very beautiful.
Almost ran over a gorgeous brown snake by a few inches. The snake made it off the side. 
After 30 miles rain started again, I was about 7000 feet high and it got very cold. In the town of Rico about 8000 feet high I threw the proverbial towel and shivering checked into a Bed and Breakfast/Hostel.
I watched 2 episodes of "The Simpsons" at the towns only store with the store owner had a beer at the local bar and called it a day.
Finally figured out a good meal made from cans. Canned salmon stewed in canned tomato soup. It was actually good.

Day 29, July 29, Rico to Ridgway, 67 miles, 4600 feet ascent

The day started cold at 45 degrees and I left with all my clothe on. Went over Lizard Head pass, 10,222 feet.
Colorado is beautiful. 14k foot mountains all around. Zoomed down the other side, passed Telluride as in famous ski resort. I am finally finding stores with more selection. What a treat. I love civilization.
I am stopping often to take in the scenery. Unfortunately with the place comes a lot more traffic, this being peak summer season. Lots of trucks. It rained a few times, but not for long.
On nice thing about Colorado is , that for the first time since I began this trip, I was in comfortable temperature much of the time. 75-90F.
I found a pretty spot off the road, made camp and ate. A soon as I was in the tent, a thunderstorm rolled through, yes rain again. The incredible thing was that the same storm came back 2 hours later, pelting my tiny tent form the opposite side. It must have been driven back by the mountains and changing winds. Kind of incredible to me.

Day 30, July 30, Ridgway to Sapinero, 56 miles, 4700 feet ascent

I broke camp and walked my bicycle down the dirt road I had used the night before to get back to the main road. The ground was soggy from the rain and all four tires picked up lots of mud. On the side of the road there was gravel which soon ordained the mud over the tires. It looked funny. My brakes were a ball of mud. The next town had a self service car wash and yes you guessed it, I was the only bicycle in there. It was a odd scene. Funny.
Had to seek shelter from rain a few times, but it passed.
In the evening I was approaching Blue Mesa Reservoir, Colorado biggest body of water and surprisingly small. In fact I did not know how dry Colorado really is. It is a desert below 6-7k feet. Near the reservoir were a lot of homes so I tried to find a camping spot in the mountain before. No flat area, without which I can not sleep. I finally found a tiny space, right next to the (major) road and so small, my legs below my knees were already off the ground. Logging trucks going uphill are loud. My sleep was according. I was still at 8500 feet, so I wore all my clothe to sleep.

Day 31, July 31, Sapinero to Sargents, 63 miles, 2200 feet ascent

Had breakfast watched by (sometimes honking) RVs trucks and cars.
Outside of a town I passed, I saw a guy hitchhiking, complete with gang tattoos and walk. It was hot and I knew that there was only one place for water in the next 50 miles. He was carrying nothing. It caught my attention. I stopped and talked with him. He told me why he was out here, trying to get back home to Colorado Springs over 200 miles away. He met a woman on Facebook, who invited him over, even willing to pick him up. He checked into a motel with her. The next thing he remembered was waking up. Everything but his shoes pants and shirt gone. He was clearly drugged. As he told me the story, tears were rolling down his face. He was pretty humiliated. I gave him one of my water bottles, some food and $20.- I let him make a phone call..... and he called his mom, hanging up with "I love you" after reassuring her. The guy was real.
A gentle soul, born into a neighborhood he can not fit in. I made him promise to help the next person he sees in need. I believe he will do it. I hope he found a ride.
Near the end of the day, I was getting water from a creek and came face to face to the same kind of snake I almost killed a few days earlier. It was a Water Snake.
I rented a little cabin for the night, found no other choice.

Day 32, August 1, Sargents to Westcliffe, 80 miles, 5600 feet ascent

Between Sargents and Westcliffe, lies Monarch pass and the continental divide, rivers either flowing west or east. It was a steep 3000 foot climb to the top at 11,312 feet high. I have never been higher on a bicycle and I may never again be. It was exhilarating. It rained briefly in the afternoon. Beautiful ride along the Arkansas river valley. Checked into a motel for two nights, having a rest day following.
Spoke at length with the motel manager, a smart and open minded (this is very very conservative county) man. Aaron has a degree in medieval history and the conversation meandered beautifully along many topics. He helped me understand the area and its people better and he said that I influenced the topic of his next course he is teaching in San Diego State University. How beautiful is that. 
There are a great many people that I have met on this journey, that I can not or did not mention. It has been a great privilege to meet and learn from them.
Other than walking, I do not know of any other way on how to get such a sense of this beautiful country.


Dietmar's Index and other tidbits..

Percentage of all Harley Davidson motorcycles currently registered in the USA that have been within a two mile radius of wherever I have been in the last two month?
99.8


Percentage of  Harley Davidson motorcycles in the shop on average at any given time?
0.2

Amount of mountains over 14k feet in Colorado?
58 (this is true)


What does the word "cannoisseur" mean?
Its a new word meaning "the art of cooking with canned goods"


Total miles so far: 1,587
Total ascent so far: 91,500 feet



Day 32, August 2, Rest Day

Spent my day at the Motel talking with Tarla and Erin, the managers, people whose kind souls I will not forget. Did laundry at $10.- for soap, washing and drying. A stark reminder at the cost of poverty if you happen to be to poor to own a laundry set.
I read part of a conservative newspaper, for the second time on this trip, and was struck again by the meanness and the complete disregard for facts. In fact it scared me.
Also, I want to report, that my shoulder is improving, riding pretty much pain free for hours most days now!
Sleep is still difficult, but that is nothing new. Last week I could not fall asleep until 2 in the morning, but I managed 6 good hours last night. Fact is that I managing on what I have.
Life is good.