Burning Trees, Tires and Generous People

Day 23, July 23, Torrey to Hanksville, 54 miles, 1800 feet ascent

Stayed in hotel in Torrey. As I was leaving, I inspected my tires, because I had been noticing some pattern appearing in the middle of the rear tire. Turns out , they were threats, staring to show. OK, need new tire, very soon, maybe now. Would have been smart to inspect this sooner. Nearest bicycle store is a scant 256 miles away (really). No problem, FedEx it. Turns out they do not ship overnight everywhere. A lot less so, where nobody lives. Nearest Post Office (in travel direction) was 186 miles away in Blanding. 

After a few phone calls and back and forth, I decided to try my luck, aided by the smart move to switch the much better tire from the front to the rear. Off I went, now rather fearful to go more than 25 mph downhill, in case the tire blows. 

On this day, for the first time, somebody stopped next to me, while riding and offered me a cold bottle of water. French tourists never the less. I am now no longer in favor of bombing France.

I pitched my tent in the desert, just in time before it started raining....again. It was still very hot outside. The tent was like a sauna. I did not sleep much.

Day 24, July 24, Hanksville to Colorado River, 60 miles, 3200 feet ascent 

As I was leaving, I noticed, that I could no longer clip into my pedals. I had broken the piece of plastic on my shoe that clicks in. Not good. What was good, is that there is "Cycle Ride". They raise money for some cancer by having people ride across the country supported by a Mercedes Station Wagon with food and drink and stuff. I did not even see them. I was having lunch and they stopped to see if I was OK. I had the presence of mind to say: I am good, but do you have some spare clips for Look pedals. They did. $40.- Problem was the only ATM for the last 100 miles was broken when I rode through....no money.

So the guy spends 45 minutes unscrewing his from his shoes and installs the new ones, giving me his used ones, which where fine. We did not have the right tools which is why it took so long. What sweet people.

I continued through a spectacular canyon and then reached the Colorado River. I knew that it would emotionally significant, but I can not tell you why. When I glimpsed the river, I started crying and right after, laughing. It was great. It felt like such an achievement. When I crossed the bridge I realized, that the river was far below. I needed to touch the water. So I climbed down and did. Almost got stuck in the muck, very scary. Had my dinner at the by now closed Ute National Recreation Area. Was grateful, that the bathrooms were open, my only chance at fresh water, Without I could not continue. 

The next town was 76 miles away, no water anywhere, and very hot. To reduce heat exhaustion on the 10% climb out of the river valley I rode the first 4 miles that evening, loaded down with 19 pounds of water.

I camped in the desert in an remote and stunning valley, with my tire still in place, to my surprise.

It was very windy and I was almost asleep, when I heard a gunshot. Now there is no hunting in the area. I could not see anybody. It did not help my sleep.

Day 25, July 25, Colorado River to Blanding, 72 miles, 6200 feet ascent

My biggest ride so far. I used up all my water 15 miles before town. Did not matter as you will read soon.

Beautiful countryside. The pass tops out at 7100 feet. As I neared the top, two different cars stopped to offer me water and talk to me. A young man riding the other direction joined me for a few miles so we could talk. It was so helpful.
As I got to the top, it started hailing and raining....again. Got very wet again. Then I started to see smoke a few miles away. Lightening had struck a tree, about 100 feet from the road. No flames, but lots of smoke. The tree was about 15 feet tall. I jumped off, grabbed both water bottles and doused the tree. I found a creek nearby and began running back and forth for about 1/2 hour sliding in the still falling rain. I thought I was done, the rain stopped, when I saw a flame shooting up higher on the tree. I climbed the tree and poured water from the top and that did it. I arrived in Blanding very tired, but with an intact though very worn tire. I stopped at the first gas station, rewarded myself with a big bag of potato chips and a big beer and then checked into a hotel for two days.

Day 26, July 26, Blanding

Day of rest, and fix my tire problem. I met a very open and friendly German family. They agreed to give me a ride to Moab, some 70 miles away where the nearest bicycle store was. They spent 20 minutes rearranging their car, so I could fit. They were extraordinary nice people, and I will stay in touch. Danke schön.
I found my tires, had lunch and got three rides to take me home, never waiting more than 10 minutes, all very friendly people. I must say, I greased the skids by bringing along my front wheel, so they knew I was broken down on my bicycle. It really was touched by how many people have helped me the last few days. I am grateful.



Total distance so far: 1,198 miles
Total ascent so far: 76,600 feet